Method of making apparel-collars



(No M dem 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

J. F.'FELLOWS. METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL GOLLARS.

No. 409,179. Patented Aug. 20, 1889.

(No Model.) SShets-Sheet 2.

J. P. FELLOWS. METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL GOLLARS. No. 409,179. Patented Aug. 20, 1889.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(No ModeL) J. P. FELLOWS. METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL GOLLARS.

No. 409,179. Patented Aug. 20, 1889.

Ixgdj UNITED STATES ATENT JAMES FRANKLIN FELLOVS, OF TROY, NEXV YORK.

METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL-'COLLARS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 409,179, dated August 20, 1889.

Application filed March 16, 1889. Serial No. 303,509. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J AMEs FRANKLIN FEL- LOWS, of the city of Troy, county of Reusselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Method of Making Ap-- parel-Oollars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a method of cut ting, placing, folding, and connecting the facings and ply-blanks of an apparel eollar, and my invention has for its object the giving of more strength and durability to the connected parts, and to simplify the making of the collar by reducing the number of parts to be separately out.

My invention consists, as will be more fully detailed hereinafter in connection with its illustration, in cutting each of the collar-facing parts and each of the ply parts in one piece of double-facing width, which facing part, when folded centrally and longitudinally, will produce the two outer facings of the collar, and each ply part so cut will, when folded longitudinally and centrally, produce two thicknesses of ply then laying the double folds of ply on the folded facing part, so that on its fold-line the ply part shall subtend the facing on its fold-line; then turning over and down the subtending edge of the ply as thus laid, sewing the parts as thus laid at the tabs and ends; then turning the connected blanks so as to bring the facings at the outside, with the ply-folds inside, then turning in and closing up the bottom edge, and, finally, borderstitching the collar.

Accompanying this specification, to form a part of it, there are three plates of drawings, containing fourteen figures illustrating my invention, with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in all of them.

Of the illustrations, Figure 1 shows a plan view of the piece cut from the fabric to form the two exterior facings of the collar. Fig. 2 shows a plan view of the piece out from the fabric to form the two thicknesses of the ply, and also a modification of the same when not cut angularly at the ends of the folds, as indicated by a dotted line. Fig. 3 shows the double ply-blank as longitudinally and contrally folded over and down. Fig. 4. shows a section taken on the line 00 a." of Fig. 3. Fig.

5 shows a plan view of the double facingblank when folded centrally. Fig. 6 shows the longitiulinally-folded ply-blank as laid over the folded facing-blank. Fig. "7 shows a section taken on the line 00 50 of Fig. 6. Fig. 8 shows a eross-section taken on the line 00 of Fig. 6. Fig. 9 shows the parts as laid at Figs. 6, 7, and 8, with the subtending top edge of one of the ply-folds turned over and down on the exterior of its outer fold. Fi 10 shows a section taken on the line 0c of Fig. 9. Fig. 11 shows a plan View of the completed collar. Fig. 12 shows a section taken 011 the line :10 w of Fig. 11. Fig. 13 shows a section taken on the line of Fig. 11, and Fig. 14 a perspective of the completed collar.

The several parts of the collar thus illus trated are designated byletter-referenee, and the several process steps by which the parts are manipulated and connected are described as follows:

The letter F designates the double facingblank cut in one piece from the fabric, and composed of the centrally connected and re versing facing parts f f, each of which is made with. the button-hole tab parts T, rounded corners R, and each. of which is the counterpart of the other in form, as shown at Fig. 1. The letter P designates the double ply-blank, which, where folded longitudinally and centrally, produces the two ply parts 13 and 13 as shown at Fig. 2, with the ily part 1) and p out to correspond in form with the facing partf, as shown by the dotted line (1 of Fig. 2, or with the ply part 19 cut inwardly at the ends on the angle at a toward the fold-line (Z and having its upper corners out off on an angle a that is obtuse to the-side of the blank, as shown at Figs. 2, 3, and 6. These parts of the collar, having the form be fore described, are arranged and connected as follows:

The facingblank F is folded on the line d. The ply-blank doublet P is then folded on the line (7, so as to bring the parts into the position shown at Fig. 3, in which position the p1y-f0ldp when its ends are cut angularly at a a is sewed at S to the other plyblank When. not so cut angularly at the ends, this sewing s is omitted. The folded ply-blank. P is then as folded laid over the folded facing-blank so as to subtend it at the top, as shown at Fig. 8 After this has been done the rounded ends of the ply and facing are sewed at 8 this sewing being done with the round ed ends of the blank at the corners used as a guide, and with the sewing continued past the folded top edge of the facing into the folded edge of the superimposed ply-blank where subtending the facing, as indicated at 2, Figs. (3 and 0. The subtending edge of the ply designated at 11, Figs. 8 and 9, is then turned over and down, as at Fig. 10. The blanks thus connected are then turned through the open bottom so as to bring the facings to the outside and the two folds of the ply inside, and then the lower edges are turned in and the parts. are border-stitched at The plyblank P on the lower edge of the told 12 is cut out at 0 to make the collar thinner where the back button-hole is made. As thus made, but two blank forms are required to be cut to produce a collar, and by having the plyfolds connected at the top, they are not at all likely to become detached during the process of laundering, and the top edge of the facing being made of continuous material is not apt to break away and become ragged during the operation of laundering. The angular cut made upon the inner plyfold p at a, when employed, reduces the thickness of the collar thereat and produces a fold-line for the turned-down corners of the collar, as shown at C, Fig. 14.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,

The method of producing an apparel-collar herein described, and consisting in cutting the facing-blank in one piece of double width, and folding it longitudinally and centrally to produce the facings, substantially as described, cutting the ply-blank in one piece of double width and folding it longitudinally and centrally to produce two thicknesses of the ply, substantially as described, laying the folded ply-blank upon the folded facingblank, so as to subtend the latter at the top edge of the collar, turning down the subtending top edge of the ply, sewing the ends of the blanks as thus laid, turning the parts through the open side so as to bring the facing-folds at the outside, then turning in the bottom edges and border-stitching the parts, as herein set forth.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 27th day of November, 1888, in the presence of the two witnesses whose names are hereto written.

JAMES FRANKLIN FELLOXVS.

Vitnesses:

W. E. IIAGAN, CHARLES S. BRINTNALL. 

